Those little screws on your forks and shock are clickers, and they control damping — how fast oil moves through the suspension. Learn what each one does and you can fine-tune the bike to the track without ever opening the suspension up.
First, Set Sag
Clickers are fine-tuning. If your spring rate and race sag aren't right, no amount of clicking will fix the bike. Sort sag first, then tune damping.
Compression vs Rebound
- Compression damping controls how the suspension resists compressing when it hits a bump. More compression = firmer, holds up in travel; less = plusher, uses more travel.
- Rebound damping controls how fast the suspension extends back after a bump. More rebound = slower return; less = faster return.
Which Way Is Which
Turning a clicker in (clockwise) adds damping — firmer/slower. Turning it out (counter-clockwise) removes damping — softer/faster. Always count clicks from fully closed so you can return to your baseline. Write your settings down.
Reading the Bike
- Harsh on small chop? Try going out (softer) on compression a couple clicks.
- Bottoming on big hits/landings? Go in (firmer) on compression, or check sag/spring.
- Rear kicks up over bumps or feels like a pogo stick? Rebound is too fast — go in a click or two.
- Suspension packs down and rides low in braking bumps? Rebound is too slow — go out.
How to Test
Change one clicker at a time, two clicks at a time, and ride the same section of track. Bigger jumps make it hard to feel what changed. Small, methodical adjustments are how you find a setting that actually works for you.